Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Banks Islands - Vanuatu

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Vanuatu

In a month or so my partner and I are visiting Gaua, Vanua Lava and Mota Lava (part of the Banks Islands in Vanuatu) for approximately a month, and we're after some advice on the following things:
- Is it necessary to book anywhere in advance on these islands, or is it okay just to show up and find things?
- Will we have to carry a months worth of vatu around with us, or is there somewhere on one of these islands where we can withdraw and exchange money?
- How is the snorkeling on these islands?
Any advice you can offer for travel to the Banks islands would be greatly appreciated.
Thank-you!
Emma

While I haven't been to the Banks Islands, they have a strong connection to the Solomon Islands through the church, and so I have some knowledge. I think it would be highly unlikely for you to find an ATM (bank machine) or anybody who takes Visa etc cards anywhere in the area. Even travellers cheques would be hard to cash, so take all the Vatu you need from Vila or Santo.
A local contact would be useful finding accommodation - there are unlikely to be any hotels bigger than a local rest house with a few rooms.
These are very remote islands with few modern facilities.

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I was in Gaua a few years back now. Then it was impossible (no communication as the radio link was down) and not necessary to book ahead and there was definitely no where to get cash (life was so simple there I can't see how this would have changed). It was my favourite spot in Vanuatu - there was one place to stay - very basic but quite expensive (for how basic it was) and we were treated like a member of the family. We agreed on a price without lunch, but because we hung around a few extra days than most people the owner provided a free feast one day. He also organized a trip to Mt Garet - definitely take your time on this (most people then tried to do it in one night).

We spent just a day snorkelling but didn't see much. We didn't really make much of an effort though. I had recently had a friend attacked by a shark in Tonga and was a reluctant snorkeller at that time!

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I taught at a school in Vanuatu for 6months in 2005 and travelled to Mota Lava and Gaua during school holidays. I didn't book any accommodation beforehand. In Gaua I stayed at Wongrass Bungalows which is just near the airport. I just asked people where I could stay and they helped me out. On Mota Lava I stayed in a friends village. I think it would be a good idea to book somewhere on Mota Lava beforehand because there is very limited transport and if someone knows you are coming then they can organise it for you.
I'm not too sure about money, I know I carried all I needed with me, but I was only there two weeks or so. There would defintely be no ATM's there but there may be a bank on the islands, but you would need to have opened up an account with the National Bank of Vanuatu.
I found the snorkellling on Mota Lava to be the best of out of the two islands I visited. Bright blue crystal clear water with big drop offs and plenty of fish.

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We stayed on Vanua Lava in August last year. Definitly NO ATMs, no phone (except the provisioncial government offices in Sola), no electricity. Wilkins Guest house is the place to stay, Kalep and Lillian Wilkins srun the place- very cheap, very clean and all meals provided. Daughters Julie and Dexter will act as guides if needed. Don't book through agents, contact the provincial government office in Sola directly and get them to run for Kalep, or leave a message and they will call back. Agents will charge almost 150% commission.

An alternative is Leumerous Guesthouse with Father Luke, same deal-very clean better toilets and showers than Wilkins and a great sheltered eating area. Contact through the government office. Father Luke also has accomodation on Motu Lava (Harrys Guest House). However Sola town genrator is across the road and it can be noisy on the nights they have electricity (3 nights a week for two hours).

For all activities on Vanua Lava contact the Provincial government office. THey can arrange boat trips to Kwakia (defintlity great for snorkelling, diving or lazing around). Also trips over to Motu Lava, up to Mosina (although you can eaily walk that in 3 hrs...but make sure you take gifts for Chief Rock Leaf and his family...extensive family, tins of fish, corned beef, sweets but most of all deflated soccor balls, coloured pencils and exercise books for the kids. These people are crazy about soccor and basketball, but they can't afford the balls so use coconuts instead. Get a bunch of deflated balls, you will not believe the joy of the kids. There are a couple of vehicles that can pick you up from the airport (again contact Wilkins or the PG office) for Sola.

Also, flights are arrnged from Santo, just tell the pilot which island you want to go to and he figures out the itinery. There are flights twice a week and if you're lucky they will take you up to the Torres Islands as well then drop you on the way back.

Precautions. Do take mosquito nets. Do take ant killer spray as the fire ants are painful and prolific. Take dried food or fruit with you. It is possible to buy fresh bread daily (except Sunday) Kaleps sister makes it; and Dexter makes a mean donut. Sola has small family run shops about every 100m and you can buy all kinds of essentials, but not fruit or vegetables. We also took thermos's and filled them with boiling water in the morning, and they lasted until evening-good for tea coffee etc...remember no electricity, so everything is done over open fires. Plenty of fresh clean water though. Make sure you take batteries and/or candles. And an umbrella (shade and shelter when walking).

Ask before snorkelling anywhere. Mostly its okay, but there are sanctuaries and people get upset if you go into these areas. If you see what looks like a stick with vegetation on the top in the water, that is the off limits area for fishing or spear fishing. The snorkelling almost anywhere is amazing.

Have a wonderful time, the Banks haven't been discovered yet and it is a fantastic place. Everyone is so kind and welcoming. You will be shaken by the hand and 'halloed' by all! Father Luke will have you over for 'tea'; its brilliant. We had our 8 year daughter with us and she loved it, although the food was an issue (take peanut butter!!!). I would be back like a shot, but explore futher this time. Do go up to the Sara falls and try to go to the active volcanoe. The Sulfar river does have crocs...the locals are VERY cautious about entering the river...but its a good walk to do. Koton wool island...small but Kwakia is better.... I could go on and on...just go, don't arrange anything other than with the Provincial government office...and talk to Kalep or Father Luke. They both speak excellent English. (Mosina is a French speaking village, but the chief speaks good English too).

GO and enjoy...

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Thankyou elis1 so much for that information. It sounds like a very special place.

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Thank-you all for your replies on the Banks Islands. They have been really helpful, and given us alot of insights into the area. We are all ready to go in a couple of weeks time, and convinced it will be an amazing trip. We will give an update when we get back on travelling in the Banks area. Thank-you all once again.

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