Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Living in tanna

Country forums / Pacific Islands & Papua New Guinea / Vanuatu

Hi
Could someone shed some more light on living in tanna, I am single female and looking at taking up a job offer there for 6-12 months, I would have a 10 year old boy with me and would like to have him attending school if possible. He would need to be in school or cared for whilst I worked. Also is there any long term rental properties available.
Would appreciate any information that anyone has.
Thanks very much

Are you quite sure you understand what you are taking on ? Tanna is mighty primitive even by Vanuatu standards. Are you OK cooking on a wood stove and living in a house with no plumbing, telephone or electricity ? Access to all of the western world's basic services is not available all over Tanna. Maybe you should go there for a few days just to have a look.

On the other hand, Vila sees foreign workers come and go all the time. There is rented accommodation available for every budget from a studio in the centre of town to a 4 bedroom house with pool in an isolated area. Working there might be better for you and the schools are better too.

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I don't think that's a very accurate representation, I lived there for the first 6 months of this year and I had reliable electricity, running water, a fully functioning shower, yes it was cold, but it's fine considering the weather. I also had a flushing toilet and gas stove. The main town of Lenakel is no Port Vila, but it isn't in anyway 'primitive'. Yes there are many villages where life hasn't changed much and traditions are quite strong, but it is not totally cut off. There is internet and mobile phones, which get good reception across the island.
I agree Vila see more foreign workers, but you will in no way be the first or only foreign worker they've ever seen!

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Well I did say that not all of Tanna has electricity. Who is to say there will be a house with electricity and water available at the time ? One must always be ready for the worst. Even today there are hundreds of houses in Vila with no electricity and a wood burning stove. Sola was electrified a few years ago and then the generator broke down. Has it ever been fixed ?

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Never mind the nay-sayers, you'll be fine. Visit any village and you'll find a hut to live in. As a guide, tourists staying in bungalows pay on average 3000 vatu a night. You should be able to negotiate a rental far lower than that. Just be aware that although Lenakel is the main town, it is a small place (I wish TT allowed pictures I could send). As in most places you'll only have power for a few hours a night, which affects refrigeration (therefore the foods you'll be able to store/eat), lighting, computer access and communication. Shops are haphazard affairs for westerners - you'll rarely find what you want. That said, you'd be hard pressed to find kinder people in the world. Don't worry about baby-sitting - ni-Van adore kids and look after them as if they were their own. Education is free for primary school kids (though I don't know how this affects foreigners). Like everyone else, You will have to pay for your kiddie to attend high school. The French schools charge less than the English ones. Good luck

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Shaunee I think you have the most amazing opportunity for you and your son to experience a different and a kind world. I visited Tanna as a tourist for one week of the two we spent in Vanuatu a few months ago. I came with the eyes of a person who has lived and worked for many years in South East Asia. Our time in Tanna was the best. Of all the countries that I have ever travelled in a felt the easiest and safest that I have ever felt. I loved the astmosphere

There is no doubt that life is simple in Tanna. From what I saw it is likely that there would be houses for you to rent that would provide good shelter and a simple kitchen, You might have to barter for some fresh food stuffs or grow them yourself. There is a primary school in Lenakel but I dont know about other areas of the island.

I would think that 10 years old would be the perfect time to take my son on an adventure to a very kind country

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Hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread, but I have a question about the education in not only Tanna, but Vanuatu as well. We're considering a move there, but have 4 school aged children and the International school in Port Vila is VERY expensive. Is it advisable, or even possible to send them to a different school? I even thought about homeschooling, or employing a teacher...any ideas? We're Australians.

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Go! It's one of the most incredible places in the world and an opportunity of a lifetime for both you and your kid.
I know for a fact that there is rented accomodation available in Isangel and I would expect there will be in Lenakel. \i both places you'll get running water and electricity.

The best two English primary schools on the island are Lenakel Harbour school and Isangel corner school, the latter I believe has a few New Zealander's in already. The quality of education obviously won't be what he's used to so you may widh to supplement it BUT he will so far ahead of his peers at home in terms of cultural experience that this is more than compensated for.

I don't know whether you speak Bislama already but it'll take you less than a month to have it fluently.

Childcare is the very least of your worries. I'd be much happier about leaving a 10 year old to roam free on Tanna than I would in Australia. If you're concerned though you'll have no problem finding a very trustworthy mama who will look after him, especially if you offer some small Vatu.

As a single female you'd obviously be wise to take precautions about going out after dark, how you dress, interactions with males. As long as you're sensible you'll be quite fine.

I think they'll probably be in the region of 10 to 20 westerners living on the island at any one time. Anf ofcourse and increasing number of tourists. The diet will be bland, but you can supplement it with imports. There is a fairly decent hospital and I believe a Canadian doctor who works there.

Any questions don't hesistate to ask!

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Mayairis, i'm glad you visited Vanuatu before deciding to move there. From your most recent post, you probably would have been very unhappy living there. It is NOT a developed country.

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Absolutely, Ozzie. I just could not get my head around the filth in Port Vila. I can't understand why anyone would want to live that way.

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Possibly because they haven't been anywhere else to compare. Generally, however, more traditional villages are very clean.

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Mayairus
You aint seen nothing yet. If Port Vila astounded you then I suggest that you dont venture to Asia or Africa or the USA or just about anywhere. I wonder if you have actually walked outside your own immediate neighbourhood in recent times.

Why do people "choose" to live in camp like conditions? In developing countries it is usually because they have been dispossed of their land. I wonder if you noticed the massive and expensive government supported "development" projects to sell off land or the legal cases of people trying to claim back their traditional lands?

In the town where I live everyone says hello to people they pass in the street whether we know them or not. It is called courtesy. I never get sick of it. Feel a bit sorry that you find this uncomfortable.

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Let me get my head around this. Ozziegiraffe wants to wax nastily about the development of Vanuatu without saying why. Jesus man, in terms of dysfunctional countries, this has to be one of the better ones. Mayairis is only too happy to believe that Port Vila is filthy. My God, have you been anywhere in the Pacific? Get off the grass.

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Foxtrot, you have no idea what I'm talking about. I've lived in Solomon Islands for a number of years, and have many ni-Van friends. I had no intention of being nasty - that is your interpretation.

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I've been to the U.S. No desire to go to Africa or Asia. Feel free to better explain it, but about the selling off of land? It's my understanding you can't buy the land, everything has to be approved by the chief of that area - it's leased land.

I didn't find the "common courtesy" upsetting, I just got the feeling that it wasn't particularly genuine - yes, saying hello to their own, but I think they just find the tourists vaguely annoying.

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Land leases aren't so onerous. Most run for 75 years which should be plenty. If you come across a lease with only 5 years to run then you don't pay so much to the old tenant and try to cut a new lease deal with the traditional owners. Also, chiefs have no role in land deals arising from their rank meaning that their approval is not necessary.

Vila is so dirty because most of the people you see there were not born there. It is not their home so they don't care. Outer villages
are always clean and for good reason. Garbage = rats = disease. Rats are everywhere and apart from disease they steal your food.

I would urge anyone contemplating buying land in Vanuatu to NEVER buy native title land from the traditional owner. The risk of disaster is too high. Many white families have finished up losing both the money and the land.

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